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Kay Value Leader Build- Finished 7/30/17
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rickrob



Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Posts: 1083
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooter wrote:
Very cool build. Especially interested in the set neck part of the build. Cool


twangster wrote:
Looks great !!


Thanks guys-- It's been a fun project so far. Slowly making progress.

Finished shaping the neck. Used one of these-- a Shinto rasp/saw. That thing went through Maple like it was nothing.





Cut the fret slots in the fingerboard.




and routed the truss rod slot. I made the jig a while back for another build.



Finished up the fret board and installed the dots and binding. Sanded it to a 12" radius.


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Last edited by rickrob on Tue Jul 11, 2017 4:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Lon



Joined: 30 Dec 2003
Posts: 6086
Location: Stephenville, TX

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The neck is looking great. After a finish is applied, the grain on the fretboard is really going to nice.
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Kregg



Joined: 22 Apr 2008
Posts: 3333
Location: Atlanta

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice! Cool
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BeeTL



Joined: 14 Sep 2008
Posts: 1914
Location: Tampa Bay, FL

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What a cool project!
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rickrob



Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Posts: 1083
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone-- I made some more progress on this over the weekend and this week.

Finished up the neck, installed the frets and glued on the fret board.




Marked out the neck pocket and routed. Cleared it out with a Forstner bit and then cleaned up. Slipped with the router at the base of the pocket...
Filled it with QwikWood, but it will be covered anyway.




I made a tapered shim and set the neck around 4 degrees. I use a digital level to check the angle. I haven't figured out how to get the angle right on the heel so I'll have to fill the gap with some thin, tapered Maple strips.



So far so good...


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Rick


Last edited by rickrob on Tue Jul 11, 2017 4:07 pm; edited 1 time in total
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rickrob



Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Posts: 1083
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also made a bridge from Brass and Maple...


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vulture



Joined: 01 Mar 2008
Posts: 4503
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good dude. Cool are you binding it?
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t3l3cast3r



Joined: 09 Apr 2009
Posts: 1263
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2016 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vulture wrote:
Looks good dude. Cool are you binding it?


Are you asking if he's going to bind it more than it's already been bound?

It does look sharp! Is there a reason why you chose maple for the base of the bridge? I only ask because I made a wooden base for a bow-tie bridge and I tested out maple and rosewood. The maple caused the tone to be too bright and the rosewood was just right.
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Mr. Clevername



Joined: 08 Dec 2006
Posts: 2449
Location: San Francisco, CA

PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2016 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

None more bitchin'.

As for the gap between the neck heel and the body, if you think about it as if you were re-setting the neck, I think you'd be removing material from the neck to make it fit flush against the body at the proper angle, rather than adding shims.

Dan Erlewine and Frank Ford (frets.net) were my gurus for my one and only neck re-set on a Kay Thin Twin, and IIRC that's how I did it.
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twangster



Joined: 05 Aug 2005
Posts: 9512
Location: Nashville Tennessee.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2016 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neck reset formula

http://www.liutaiomottola.com/formulae/Reset.htm
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Sundaram



Joined: 05 Sep 2015
Posts: 168
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2016 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Clevername wrote:
None more bitchin'.

As for the gap between the neck heel and the body, if you think about it as if you were re-setting the neck, I think you'd be removing material from the neck to make it fit flush against the body at the proper angle, rather than adding shims.

Dan Erlewine and Frank Ford (frets.net) were my gurus for my one and only neck re-set on a Kay Thin Twin, and IIRC that's how I did it.


My formula has always been a little sandpaper and a sheet of carbon paper to get the fit perfect..
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rickrob



Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Posts: 1083
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

t3l3cast3r wrote:
vulture wrote:
Looks good dude. Cool are you binding it?


Are you asking if he's going to bind it more than it's already been bound?

It does look sharp! Is there a reason why you chose maple for the base of the bridge? I only ask because I made a wooden base for a bow-tie bridge and I tested out maple and rosewood. The maple caused the tone to be too bright and the rosewood was just right.


@Vulture - Thanks-- I built the body using the methods in your Suprotone build.

@t3l3cast3r - Thank you-- I chose Maple because most of the Value Leaders I looked at had Maple bridges.


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Rick


Last edited by rickrob on Tue Jul 11, 2017 4:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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rickrob



Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Posts: 1083
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr. Clevername wrote:
None more bitchin'.

As for the gap between the neck heel and the body, if you think about it as if you were re-setting the neck, I think you'd be removing material from the neck to make it fit flush against the body at the proper angle, rather than adding shims.

Dan Erlewine and Frank Ford (frets.net) were my gurus for my one and only neck re-set on a Kay Thin Twin, and IIRC that's how I did it.


Thanks Mr. Clevername -- I tried to shape it a bit to fit the body, but stopped because I thought I would remove too much wood. I think in the future I'll add some extra material to the heel so I can work with it. I definitely need to improve there.

twangster wrote:
Neck reset formula

http://www.liutaiomottola.com/formulae/Reset.htm


Thanks Twangster-- That will sure help in the future.

I was able to fill the gaps with maple. I'd rather not have do this again though. I think it looks OK, plus I'll probably do a Sunburst Finish like the Value leader in the above pic, so they'll be hidden.


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cooter



Joined: 17 Jan 2006
Posts: 1596
Location: Blue Ridge, GA

PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2016 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great. What kind of pickups are you putting in?
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rickrob



Joined: 19 Oct 2011
Posts: 1083
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooter wrote:
Looks great. What kind of pickups are you putting in?


I was thinking about Firebird-style mini-humbuckers. The ones with full covers. Those would look close to the pancake/zippo pickups that the Value Leaders had. I looked at GFS NY II's that were surface mount, but I don't think I'll have the 1/2 inch clearance at the neck.

Also thought about getting a cheap pair of mini HB's with the full covers for parts, and making a bobbin where the magnet is in the center and winding to about 5K. I think that's how those pancake/zippo pickups were made.



My daughter drew up this Kay-Style headstock badge for me in Illustrator-- She's really good with this stuff. I was thinking of having a piece of Nickel Silver laser engraved with this.


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Last edited by rickrob on Tue Jul 11, 2017 4:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
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