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Refinishing My Squier Affinity Strat

 
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element062



Joined: 29 May 2005
Posts: 26
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2005 7:31 pm    Post subject: Refinishing My Squier Affinity Strat Reply with quote

Hey all,
New to the forum.

Just wondering if anybody can answer my refinishing questions.

If the paint that is on it is already fine, with no chips etc. Then do I still have to strip it?
Also, Am I required to allow the finish to cure before clearcoating or doesn't this matter?

Oh, and could I just spray the headstock too? Would that turn out badly or look decent? For the neck, what should I use to get a yellowed look to it?

Thanks for your help.
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guitarguy



Joined: 29 Apr 2004
Posts: 3515
Location: Colorful Colorado

PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you go for the Candy Apple Red, look into Auto Air Colors. Waterbased, but need to be top coated with a clear. Nitro works. urethanes work. They are easy to work with.

http://www.autoaircolors.com/
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chrisk



Joined: 24 Apr 2005
Posts: 60
Location: Budapest

PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the fingerboard wood? Maple or rosewood?
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ranman



Joined: 23 Aug 2004
Posts: 584
Location: Red Lion, PA

PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tough Poll...

A lot of "depends on" questions...

I'm assuming that since the current finish is in good shape your after a more traditional Fender color and/or look.

If is this your first re-fin...
Remember. Dark colors show flaws. Light colors show dirt, fuzz etc in the finish. Metalics require a bit more care in the process. True CAR is a bit more complicated process.

To answer your questions...

If the paint is in good shape all you would need to do is scuff the existing surface, prime, shoot the new color and clear coat. It's probably color over poly and the poly will be tough to strip. It makes a good base for the new finish though.

You don't need to let the color "cure" before clearcoating. Just let dry for a day or so.

You can spray the headstock using the same prep as the body it should come out ok. I've seen a number of projects done with matching color on the headstock and it adds a nice touch.

To get the yellow aged look on the neck you can use RR neck amber but it can be tricky to apply without runs. RR also has tinted lacquer that will give similar results and is easier to apply.

Hope this helps and good luck on your project.
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element062



Joined: 29 May 2005
Posts: 26
Location: USA

PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrisk wrote:
What is the fingerboard wood? Maple or rosewood?


Its a rosewood fretboard.

Oh and Ranman,
What do you mean by scuff the finish? Should I just take some medium grit sandpaper and run over the finish, or is it more complicated? And is primer just basically white spray paint?

thanks for the help.
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chrisk



Joined: 24 Apr 2005
Posts: 60
Location: Budapest

PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

element062 wrote:
Its a rosewood fretboard.


Then I say Lake Placid Blue or Candy Apple Red, maybe with matched headstock...

Casted my vote for LPB, although I think it looks equally good with a maple or RW board.
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ranman



Joined: 23 Aug 2004
Posts: 584
Location: Red Lion, PA

PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
What do you mean by scuff the finish? Should I just take some medium grit sandpaper and run over the finish, or is it more complicated? And is primer just basically white spray paint?


Scuffing - Yes, use sandpaper to "dull" the finish. I'm not sure how medium equates but something around 320grit would do the job. The idea is to ruff up the surface a bit to give the primer something to hold on to. If sprayed on a smooth shiny surface it could peel off.

Primer is different than white spray paint. I'm not sure the dif but it is made to be sprayed over and as a layer to make various materials work together. I used BIN's which is a white pigmented shellac that works real good. My last project I tried the Reranch white nitro primer and it's even better. Sands easy and smooth.
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