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Houndogs Tru Oil Method of finishing.

 
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Joeglow
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Joined: 26 Aug 2003
Posts: 11054
Location: NY/NJ

PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 6:31 am    Post subject: Houndogs Tru Oil Method of finishing. Reply with quote

Houndog’s True-oil schedule

I stain my necks with water based stain. I use StewMac vintage amber stain, which is easy to adjust to the color I want just by adding more or less stain/water. I generally apply the stain with a cloth, then when it's dry I rub it back with #0000 steel wool. I usually use two coats of stain, followed by the steel wool. When I reach the color I'm looking for I begin applying the Tru-Oil. I use the Tru-Oil that comes in a bottle, and use my fingers to rub it into the neck. I like to start at the headstock and work towards the heel. I dip my finger into the bottle and rub the oil on in a circular motion, fast enough to generate a little warmth. Once I feel that the oil is even, I switch to a more linear motion and rub with the grain. You can lay the oil on pretty heavy for the first two coats because most of it will soak into the wood. By the third coat you should notice it starting to build up, and you'll want to use less oil on future coats. I try to work an area approx. 4-5 inches at a time and work the oil into the area I just left to feather it in. When the coat is complete I let the oil dry about 5-6 hours and re-coat. I recommend 8-10 coats and after the last coat I let the oil get nice and hard for 24 hours, followed by a light rub down with the #0000 steel wool. I use a piece of soft clean well washed denim to burnish the finish, which will give you a very fast neck. Use a decent amount of pressure and rub it lengthwise with the cloth very fast, again you want to build up a small amount of heat. I let the oil just build up on the face of the headstock and usually leave it glossy. You can apply waterslide decals right on top of the oil, and overcoat it with oil once the decal is dry if you desire. It also works well on maple fingerboards, but I find it's much easier to finish maple boards without frets, if that's an option. If not, it still works fine, it's just a little difficult to smooth it out between the higher frets because they're so close together.
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