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Clear Coat for Bass Body

 
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JonnyEsquire



Joined: 21 Nov 2017
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 2:44 am    Post subject: Clear Coat for Bass Body Reply with quote

First and foremost, thank you for adding me to this site and forum. I really appreciate it and hope to learn from the experience and expertise of it's members.

I recently bought a bass body from a guy in California and would like to clear coat it. It is a pine body with a walnut top. I have limited experience with finishing. I have stained a few guitars and aerosol sprayed a few Strat and Tele bodies. Humidity in Louisiana is nuts so I haven't gotten too carried away with finishing.

I have three questions...

1. Are there any additional steps needed before I apply the clear coat? Like sealer or anything post-sanding?

2. What is the best clear coat to use and why?

3. A local guy suggested a tung oil or wipe-on-poly finish. Would this method give me better results than a spray or would it be more difficult?

Thank you for your time.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/159190787@N06/37860347084/in/dateposted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/159190787@N06/38577197101/in/dateposted-public/
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Lon



Joined: 30 Dec 2003
Posts: 6085
Location: Stephenville, TX

PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can finish it with anything ie: poly, lacquer, 2k ureathane. Now for an easy finish that would bring the grain of the wood, I would suggest using
Tru-oil. Easy to apply, easy to repair, and durable, just follow the instructions.

Lacquer would involve a few more steps, more time, more products needed.

Poly is good for top coat, same steps as lacquer.

2k ureathane is the most durable, but needs special equipment to deal with hazardous chemicals which DIY'er don't have

Tung oil would bring out the grain, but is not durable like the above. Easy to apply, easy to repair.
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JonnyEsquire



Joined: 21 Nov 2017
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I looked at Tru oil, but sites were saying that it requires 10+ hand rubbed coats. Someone also suggested a wipe-on poly, but I am worried about how well/evenly I can cover the body by hand since I have never tried it.

I have been thinking about Poly Clear coat or perhaps the Polycrylic.

The body is already sanded to 220 grit. I was thinking about sanding further to 320 or 400 grit then applying the aerosol clear coat.

Each forum/site I was gone to has mentioned almost completely different suggestions so I'm still trying to figure it out.
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statorvane



Joined: 21 Aug 2003
Posts: 1949
Location: Upstate New York

PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I have not had a good experience w/polycrylic. I used it to seal a poplar body Strat I scratch built. It didn't cure or dry very well. Felt gummy and really loaded up the sandpaper. Not really sure what it's good for. I only tried it since I was going to apply acrylic lacquer color coats. Stuff rusts in the can as well.

Wipe on poly - you only get one chance. If you apply it evenly, great. If not - you'll have a tough time correcting.

I've never used tru-oil, but either tru-oil or lacquer are pretty forgiving if you make a mistake or two. Probably hard to make a mistake w/tru-oil. And with tru-oil I don't think you need to wait a month or so to rub-out like lacquer. I think you are doing that while applying it. Maybe somebody will chime in here.

Whatever you do I recommend a consistent finish. Don' try poly here and lacquer there.
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