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Danish Oil Finishing

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 12:27 pm    Post subject: Danish Oil Finishing Reply with quote

Danish Oil Finishing

Danish oil is a real good way to go here. Boiled Linseed oil is good but will take a very long time to dry, and you can add varnish or driers to it to help, although most companies do that now so it can be used as a buildable finish, it still dries too slow IMO. Danish oil though, has a mixture of similar varnish, thinners and driers in it but hardens to a great sheen. The only problem with doing any oil finish is that most people get the wood sealed with it but can t seem to get the pores filled and get a good sheen out of it. Do not follow the manufacturers finishing schedule on the can because the result is usually what I mentioned above. It doesnít dry as quickly as they state and the end result is a poor looking oil finish. First off, Watco makes great Danish oil and I like it a lot. Use what you like but I prefer it to most others.

Ready? This is long and I suggest printing this out.

1. Sand the surface with 280 grit or close as you can get. 240 or
320 are fine. Clean off the dust after you've sanded the whole piece.
2. Wet the surface with the oil and keep it wet for at least an hour, reapplying oil every 10 minutes. If you have a tub you can simply place it inside and give it an oil "bath" and baste it for the hour. Save the oil, you'll need it again!
3. Remove from bath and wipe all the excess oil off. Keep wiping it dry for the next 1-2 hours. Walnut, mahogany and ash will have large pores that will fill up with oil so it will seep out for a bit. Continue until there is no more seepage.

4. Now is the boring part, let it dry for 48 hours or more.
5. Wet the piece with oil again for another 20 minutes minimum, the longer the better part of an hour will help.
6. While still wet start to wet sand with 400 grit. Sand with the grain, and add oil as necessary. Watch the end grain as oil will be absorbed there most so keep it especially wet there when sanding. DO NOT wipe the slurry off the surface; this is what is going to fill the pores. If this is not done thoroughly the end grain will not seal and will not sheen like the rest of the piece.
7. Repeat step 3. There should be less seepage this time.
8. Allow to dry thoroughly.
9. You may need to repeat step 6 if it is still dull looking with 600 grit.
10. Wets sand again with 600 grit, wipe off and let dry again another 48 hours. By now the surface should be smooth feeling. If not repeat this step again.
11. You can now start wet sanding with finer grits - 1000 grit or fine Scotchbrite pads. Be sure to let the surface dry between each grit. Remember itís a slurry you are working in so if it remains wet from 1000 to 1200 you may remove the slurry that is in the pores. Let it dry completely before going ahead to the next grit as tempting as it may be.

12. You can now apply wax to enhance the sheen slightly Do not let the wax dry on the surface; itís a real chore to get it off after it has dried. Satin wax is real nice because it redissolves after itself with the next application.
13. Buff with a dry clean rag. Let it completely dry overnight and repeat the wax process.

Thatís it. Its is time consuming but if you donít skimp or skip out on any of the parts you will have a killer oil finish.

Submitted by Joeglow
Nothing on earth can stop somebody with the right mental attitude. Nothing on earth can help somebody with the wrong mental attitude.
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